Spring Lawn Care Myths – Debunked
Spring is peak season for lawn care – and with it comes a flood of advice. Unfortunately, much of that advice is outdated or just plain wrong. Let’s break down the most common spring lawn care myths so you can grow a healthier, greener lawn with confidence.
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Q: Why are the tips of my grass turning brown after a lawn treatment?
A: It’s easy to assume the treatment caused the browning, but that’s rarely the case. Brown tips are usually a result of wind burn, mowing right before the application, or using dull mower blades that tear the grass rather than cut it cleanly. Torn grass blades brown at the tips as they heal. To avoid this, mow with sharp blades and allow at least a day between mowing and treatment.
Q: What are the light green weeds with white flower-like tips on the edges of my lawn?
A: That’s likely Poa Annua – also known as annual bluegrass. It’s a cool-season grassy weed that appears as pale green patches with tiny white seedheads, especially around lawn edges. While not immediately harmful, Poa annua spreads fast and can take over your lawn if left unmanaged. Pre-emergent weed control and consistent lawn maintenance are the best ways to manage Poa before it becomes a bigger problem. Click here to learn more about Poa Annua.
Q: I’m watering my lawn twice a day, but it still looks terrible. What’s wrong?
A: You could be overwatering, our team of Agronomists are happy to come out and further assist you. Frequent, shallow watering keeps roots near the surface, making your lawn weaker and more vulnerable to drought, disease, and stress. For strong turf, water deeply and less often – every other day, early in the morning (between 4:30 a.m. and 8:00 a.m.), applying about 0.5 inches per session or 1.5 inches per week total. Deeper roots lead to healthier, more resilient grass. Read more about proper watering practices here.
Q: I heard lime can only be applied in spring or fall – or it’ll burn the lawn. Is that true?
A: Not at all. Lime can be applied anytime your lawn needs it. At Virginia Green, we base lime applications on soil testing to determine the right timing and quantity. Lime helps correct soil pH, allowing your grass to absorb nutrients more efficiently. It’s not about the season – it’s about giving your lawn what it needs, when it needs it. Learn more about the benefits of lime or get started today and allow your lawn to reach its full potential.
Q: Should I mow my grass really short like a putting green?
A: Short mowing might look neat temporarily, but it puts your lawn at risk. Scalping the grass weakens it, encourages weed growth, and leaves it more prone to drought and heat damage. For optimal lawn health for cool-season grasses, mow to a height of 3.5 to 4 inches. If you have a warm season lawn, we recommend mowing Bermuda lawns 1.5 to 2 inches and Zoysia lawns to 2-2.5 inches. Taller grass supports deeper roots and helps retain soil moisture – resulting in a thicker, healthier lawn. For more information on proper mowing practices, read our blog post.
Q: I keep seeing Poa Annua year after year. Why won’t it go away?
A: Poa annua seeds can remain viable in your soil for years. They typically germinate in fall (October through November), so by spring, they’re already well established. That’s why it feels like the weed is "coming back" – it's never truly left. Preventing re-growth requires timely pre-emergent treatments and, in many cases, a professional lawn inspection to adjust your weed control strategy. Click here to learn more about Poa Annua.
Q: Won’t lawn treatments just wash away in the rain or with watering?
A: Not with the right products. Our pre- and post-emergent weed control treatments are designed to work with moisture. In fact, watering or rainfall shortly after application helps move the product into the soil, where it can activate and start controlling weeds. Unless there’s heavy flooding, you don’t have to worry about treatments being washed away. Learn more here.
Q: I have moles. Does that mean I have a grub problem?
A: Not necessarily. Moles do eat grubs, but their preferred food is earthworms. Their presence often signals healthy, nutrient-rich soil – not a grub infestation. Still, mole tunnels can cause lawn damage. At Virginia Green, we offer specialized mole control treatments that reduce activity without relying solely on grub control, which usually isn’t enough to stop moles on its own. For more information on moles, read our blog post here, and get started with our Mole Control Program and Grub Control Program here.
Have more spring lawn care questions?
Whether you're battling weeds, dealing with turf stress, or wondering how to water your lawn the right way, we’re here to help. The right lawn care plan starts with facts – not myths.